Textile hemp: advantages, disadvantages and environmental impact

Used for centuries for ropes, sails, and then clothing, textile hemp is making a comeback in fashion collections today. This plant-based fiber is durable, has a distinctive natural appearance, and can be used on its own or blended with other materials. But is hemp really eco-friendly? Here are its main benefits, limitations, and tips for properly caring for it.

What is textile hemp?

Textile hemp is a natural fiber obtained from the stalk of the hemp plant. After harvesting, various processes separate and prepare the fibers before they are spun and then converted into fabric.

In clothing, hemp can be used on its own or combined with other fibers, particularly cotton. These blends can alter the softness, flexibility, drape, or durability of the fabric.

Why is hemp used in clothing?

Hemp fibers are valued for their durability. They can be used to make t-shirts, shirts, trousers, jackets, or accessories. The resulting fabric depends heavily on the yarn, weight, weave, and any other fibers used.

Modern processes also make it possible to produce hemp textiles that are softer than the image sometimes associated with old, very rustic fabrics.

Is hemp eco-friendly?

Hemp has several interesting agricultural characteristics and can be incorporated into cropping systems with different requirements than those of other fibers. However, it would be an exaggeration to automatically label any hemp garment as "eco-friendly".

The final impact depends on the location and farming practices, but also on the preparation of the fibers, spinning, dyeing, manufacturing, transport, and the lifespan of the garment.

What are the benefits of textile hemp?

A durable fiber

Hemp's durability is one of its main qualities. Used in a well-designed garment, it can help produce pieces suitable for regular use.

A versatile plant-based fiber

Hemp can be woven or knitted in different ways and combined with other fibers. It is therefore found in both lightweight pieces and more robust fabrics.

A texture that evolves

Some hemp fabrics may feel relatively firm when new, then gradually soften with wear and washing, depending on their construction.

What are the drawbacks of hemp?

Depending on the process used, converting it into a fiber fine and flexible enough for clothing can require several industrial operations. The price of hemp clothing may also be higher than that of textiles manufactured on a very large scale. Finally, the origin of the fiber and the processing steps are not always easy to identify.

Hemp or cotton: what are the differences?

Hemp and cotton are two plant-based fibers, but they come from different parts of the plant. Cotton comes from the fibers surrounding the seeds of the cotton plant, while textile hemp fibers come from its stalk.

Cotton is particularly widespread and offers many levels of softness and fineness. Hemp is often sought for its durability and textured appearance. Cotton-hemp blends allow certain characteristics of both fibers to be combined.

→ To learn more: our organic cotton guide.

Hemp or linen: what are the differences?

Hemp and linen are both fibers extracted from plant stalks. Depending on the fabric, they may have a fairly similar appearance, but their supply chains, properties, and processing techniques differ.

→ See also: our guide to linen.

How to wash and care for a hemp garment?

Recommendations depend on the garment's composition and construction. Always check the label before washing.

• Use a gentle cycle when machine washing is permitted.
• Follow the temperature indicated by the manufacturer.
• Avoid using too much detergent.
• Opt for gentle drying when the instructions allow it.
• Take other fibers into account when it is a blend.

How to identify a hemp garment?

The textile composition indicated on the label or product page allows you to identify the proportion of hemp. Check whether the garment is made of 100% hemp or is a blend, as this affects its feel and care.

To compare this fiber with other materials, see our textile materials guide. You can also find the products containing hemp currently available at NEIWA.

Frequently asked questions about textile hemp

Is hemp a natural material?

Yes. Textile hemp fiber is plant-based and comes from the stalk of the plant.

Is hemp comfortable to wear?

It depends on the fabric. The fineness of the yarn, the weave, the finishes, and any blended fibers strongly influence the feel.

Does hemp shrink when washed?

Its behavior depends on the construction and the other fibers present. Follow the care label and avoid temperatures higher than those recommended.

Is hemp more eco-friendly than cotton?

There is no universal answer. Impacts depend notably on farming practices, the region, processing, and the lifespan of the garment.