Tencel: What Is Lyocell, and What Are Its Pros and Cons?
TENCEL™ is increasingly appearing on clothing labels, but the term is often confused with lyocell. What is the difference? How is this fibre made, what are its advantages and limitations, and can it really be considered a more responsible material? Here is the essential information you need to know.
What is Tencel?
TENCEL™ is a brand of textile fibres developed by the Austrian company Lenzing. It refers to lyocell and modal fibres produced by Lenzing. Lyocell, meanwhile, is the generic name for a type of manufactured cellulosic fibre: therefore, not all lyocell is necessarily TENCEL™.
The raw material used is wood-derived cellulose. It is processed to produce fibres that can then be spun and woven to make clothing.
What is the difference between Tencel and lyocell?
The distinction is important: lyocell refers to the textile fibre, while TENCEL™ is a brand name. This relationship can be compared to that between a product category and a brand that produces an identifiable version of it.
Therefore, when a garment lists "lyocell" in its composition, it does not automatically mean that the fibre comes from TENCEL™.
How is Tencel lyocell made?
Production begins with wood that is processed into cellulose pulp. This cellulose is then dissolved and converted into fibres. The lyocell process is notably known for using a closed-loop solvent recovery system, which allows a very large proportion of it to be reused.
However, the actual impact of a textile depends on many factors: the origin of the raw material, the industrial process, the energy used, dyeing, manufacturing, transport, and the lifespan of the garment.
What are the benefits of Tencel Lyocell?
A soft material
Lyocell generally has a smooth and soft feel. It is particularly popular for shirts, dresses, trousers, underwear, and clothing worn directly against the skin.
Good moisture management
Cellulosic fibres such as lyocell can absorb moisture, which contributes to the comfort of the garment. This characteristic explains, in particular, its use in lightweight and summer clothing.
A versatile fibre
Lyocell can be used on its own or blended with other fibres such as cotton or wool. Depending on the weave and fabric weight, it can produce flowing or more structured fabrics.
An interesting alternative to certain conventional fibres
Its manufacturing process and the cellulosic origin of the fibre can make it an interesting option when selecting materials. However, this does not mean that a garment automatically becomes "eco-friendly" simply because it contains Tencel.
What are the drawbacks of Tencel?
Tencel also has limitations. Its production remains an industrial process that requires resources and energy. Its price may also be higher than that of certain conventional fibres.
Furthermore, the quality and durability of a garment depend heavily on its construction, fabric weight, and the fibres with which the lyocell may be blended. It is therefore preferable to assess the garment as a whole rather than relying solely on the name of the material.
Is Tencel eco-friendly?
It is more accurate to speak of a fibre that may offer certain environmental benefits rather than a material that is "eco-friendly" by definition. The origin of the wood, forest management, the processing method, and the lifespan of the product must also be taken into account.
To better understand how Tencel compares with other fibres, see our guide on the different materials used in the textile industry.
How should a Tencel garment be cared for?
Always start by following the instructions on the garment's label. Depending on the item and its composition, a gentle, low-temperature wash may be recommended. Avoid excessive temperatures and also follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying.
As lyocell is often blended with other fibres, care instructions can vary greatly from one garment to another.
What garments are made from Tencel?
Lyocell is found in many categories: shirts, t-shirts, trousers, dresses, underwear, and summer clothing. Its fluidity and softness make it a particularly versatile material.
You can find the garments available at NEIWA, particularly in our Thinking MU and Knowledge Cotton Apparel selections, depending on the available compositions.
Frequently asked questions about Tencel
Are Tencel and lyocell the same thing?
Not exactly. Lyocell is a type of manufactured cellulosic fibre. TENCEL™ is a brand of fibres produced by Lenzing, which notably markets TENCEL™ Lyocell.
Is Tencel a natural material?
Its raw material, wood-derived cellulose, is of natural origin, but it undergoes industrial processing to become a textile fibre. Lyocell is therefore generally classified as a manufactured cellulosic fibre.
Does Tencel shrink in the wash?
How it behaves depends on the fabric and the composition of the garment. To avoid any unpleasant surprises, follow the temperature and instructions indicated on the label.
Does Tencel keep you warm?
This depends mainly on the fabric, its weight, and the other fibres used. Lyocell is often appreciated in lightweight clothing for its softness and moisture management.
